I don't think Spring has officially started until you take that first shower that reminds you exactly where your sunburns are. I am delighted to say my spring has sprung!
After a ninety minute subway ride I had reached the base of Dobong Mountain. The first thing I noticed was that I looked out of place. This time it was not because I was white but because of my attire. Shorts and a t-shirt just weren't cutting it because everyone around me appeared to have just stepped (or should I say climbed?) out of a North Face catalogue. Walking further along the base of the mountain town you begin to understand just how deep the hiking culture in Korea is.
Dozens of stores lined along bustling streets were dedicated to selling anything you may need for the great outdoors. Whether you want the real thing or lower quality imitation Korean brands there was a store tucked away in the maze of merchandise that had your shade, style and size in stock. The streets were awash with all manner of hiking gloves, sticks, shoes, boots, backpacks, jackets, hats, and pants. The Korean passion for hiking has a religious fervor with every worthy mountain serving as a weekend pilgrimage site.
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North Face |
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Right next door...Red Face. I wonder what they sell? |
Nearing the base of the mountain I couldn't help but feel like I was entering a magical theme park whose visitors were not kids but primarily AARP card holders. The street vendors were selling cotton candy and roasted chestnuts as a beggar, or as I refer to them, urban explorer, was playing the saxophone. The smell of sweet and salty treats combined with the music and the chattering of hordes marching in the same direction left me wondering where Mickey and Cinderella were.
In their place was a cute little mascot who made frequent appearances along the hiking trail. These little bears messages were usually warning you of the fatally dangerous perils that awaited you on the mountain. Is it just me or do these warnings need to be a bit more foreboding and a bit less cuddly? Awwwww, look at the lighting and the blazing fire! Cuteeeeeee.
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I like his hat. Staying classy in a Lighting storm. :) |
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These kinds of signs will make kids run up and try to hug real-life bears. Although, if that was videotaped it would be a Youtube hit. |
Climbing the mountain, I realized just how much at odds my westernized perception of hiking was with Koreans. I think of hiking as a chance for strenuous exercise, best done at a pace that allows for little conversation and much sweating. Throughout the trail groups of Koreans were setting up mini-base camps complete with Makgeolli (Korean rice wine), Kim Bop, Ramen, pork, chicken etc. So much for water, a Power Bar and a good ol' PB & J.
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Did I mention I met Ichiro's dad on the mountain? |
Hiking in Korea is truly a social experience. Reaching the top of the crowded peak I was a one-man wolf pack but I met another one-man wolf pack. She asked me if I wanted to join her wolf-pack and I thought,
"could it be?" And it was. We became a wolf-pack of two. Her name was Candy and over the years she had made Mt. Dobong her second home.
Soon she was leading me all about the mountain , showing her favorite mountainside haunts and pointing to the cliff faces that she had free climbed in her younger years. She was like a mountain goat continually putting me to shame as she led our descent at a pace that left me stumbling amongst the boulders to keep up.
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This is Candy. She has Sherpa-like talents.
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Bukhansan National Park |
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Seoul |
I spent the next three hours contemplating whether Candy was a quirky free-spirit or bats**t crazy. One thing for sure is that it was an adventure. We spent the majority of the time venturing off the beaten path scrambling down a gigantic pile of rocks only to climb up a bigger pile moments later. We scaled up trees, ate Kim bop atop a secluded rock overlooking Seoul and sampled the pink mountain flowers that she assured me weren't poisonous.
"Sweet. Good. Very Sweet." she assured me.
I live by few rules in life but I've always said that if a girl named Candy tells you to eat a wild flower on a Korean mountain, you do it, no questions asked. For the record, they were delicious and sweet.
As the sun set and I headed for home I felt very satisfied. The crowded subway rumbled on and I began to think more about hiking and how I have only had enjoyable experiences. There is a sense of accomplishment, freedom, community and adventure that I get from hiking that is unique to it alone. It doesn't matter if you prefer the official North Face gear and bring a feast and your entire wolf pack with you or if you are a one-man wolf pack with little more than some water and a granola bar; as long as you enjoy yourself, be safe, and pick up your trash there is no wrong way to go about it.
I have decided to create a Hiking Bucket List that I hope will take me to some of the most beautiful natural environments on six continents. Among my current list includes the Inca Trail in Peru, Yellow Mountain in China, Korea's Seoraksan National Park, and of course, a visit to see Mt. Doom in New Zealand. My list is a work in progress so if you have any suggestions or want to join me on an adventure I'd enjoy hearing from you!
Until next time!
Kevin